Chef Kushagra Verma is a native of New Delhi and has flown the coop to become a master chef and is opening his own pan-Asian restaurant in the wonderful city of St. Louis! We sat down with our local Delhiite legend to learn about his journey and what his plans for the future might be:
Interviewer: Congratulations, Chef Verma, on your upcoming role as the head chef at Black Salt in St. Louis. You’ve had a stellar journey through some of the finest kitchens, including Junoon and Jean-Georges. Can you share how these experiences have shaped you?
Chef Kushagra Verma: Absolutely and thank you! My roles at Junoon and Jean-Georges were pivotal in many ways. At Junoon, we melded traditional Indian flavors with modern techniques, which taught me the importance of innovation while respecting and expanding my understanding of my own culture’s culinary tradition. Jean-Georges, being a Michelin-starred environment, honed my precision and the art of delivering excellence in every element of every dish consistently. Both vital institutions deeply influenced my culinary style and leadership approach. The people I’ve met and the experiences I’ve had at JG and Junoon will certainly come with me to Black Salt.
Interviewer: Junoon is a big name in Indian and Asian cuisine abroad. How did it feel to represent Indian culture in America?
Chef Verma: Junoon’s ethos is all about passion for food, culture, and innovation. Each plate served told a story, exemplifying our commitment to elevating Indian cuisine. For example, our dessert, banana baba soaked in orange blossom with jackfruit custard, was a narrative in and of itself, showcasing our approach to traditional desi flavors with a modern twist.
Interviewer: That sounds fascinating! I’m regretting not having eaten lunch before this interview. What were your favorite aspects of working at Junoon alongside the illustrious Chef Akshay Bhardwaj?
Chef Verma: The most compelling parts of the job for me were the special events the restaurant had the opportunity to host and lead. We traveled to Woodstock, New York for a collaboration with the well-regarded Santa Fe restaurant. We were bringing Junoon’s signature modern Indian cuisine from the heart of New York City to the Hudson Valley for three special nights with a uniquely crafted menu my team and I put together. It was about more than just serving food; it was about sharing our culinary philosophy in a new setting.
Interviewer: What specific elements of the menu highlighted this philosophy?
Chef Verma: We focused on integrating local, seasonal produce with our refined culinary techniques. Dishes like the Ghost Chili Chicken Tikka and Summer Saag were crafted to blend familiarity with a sense of culinary adventure, using ingredients like kale, mustard greens, and Swiss chard.
Interviewer: How did the collaboration with the local Santa Fe team impact the event?
Chef Verma: Our collaboration was essential. They helped us connect with the local palate and logistics, ensuring that every detail from the kitchen to service mirrored the high standards of Junoon. Their support was instrumental in executing a seamless pop-up experience – however it was up to Chef Bhardwaj and I to really prove Junoon’s worth, and thereby the value of our incredible cuisine, to the local community. We crafted drinks like the ‘Mumbai Margarita’ and ‘East India Gin Tonic’ that complemented the menu perfectly. These cocktails were designed to enhance the flavors of the dishes and add an extra layer to the dining experience, aligning with our innovative spirits.
Interviewer: The City Harvest event you organized with Junoon also made a big splash. Could you tell us about Junoon’s role in the Taste of Asia event?
Chef Verma: Certainly. The City Harvest Taste of Asia event was a profound experience, not just as a culinary showcase but as a cultural celebration. Many of the United State’s top restaurants gather together to honor and support New York’s Asian American and Pacific Islander (AAPI) communities through an evening of exceptional food and unity at Madison Square Park. We were one of the most influential restaurants there and our showing certainly was a highlight of the night. Chef Bhardwaj and I put together some of our best dishes reflecting our twists on classic Mughlai recipes like our ghost chicken tikka with a rainbow carrot salad, a dish that exemplifies our approach to marrying traditional Indian cooking techniques with modern presentations. This dish, in particular, has been a favorite at Junoon, known for its robust flavors and colorful presentation, which aligns beautifully with the event’s theme of celebrating diversity and vibrancy within the AAPI community.
Interviewer: This sounds like it was quite the event – the positive reception of Junoon’s defining role must have influenced your thoughts on Asian food, community, and culture in the United States.
Chef Verma: Oh certainly, indescribably so. I’ll do my best to put it into words. Getting to lead the event and foster connections with the AAPI community and other restaurateurs was such an enriching experience and it emphasized the importance of community engagement through cuisine. Being able to share my process with other chefs, exchange our approaches, and discuss our culinary passions was truly inspiring. It showed me the power of food as a universal language that can bring people together, celebrate culture, and support meaningful causes.
Interviewer: What impact do you believe events like Taste of Asia and the Santa Fe Woodstock Pop-up Collaboration have on the Asian culinary community and participating chefs?
Chef Verma: They play a critical role in not only promoting cultural understanding and appreciation but also, in the case of Taste of Asia, in supporting organizations like City Harvest, which does incredible work in fighting hunger. For chefs, these events are an opportunity to step out of our kitchens and engage directly with the community, receive immediate feedback on our dishes, and be part of a larger narrative that celebrates diversity and culinary innovation. It’s a reminder of the impact our food can have beyond just satisfying hunger — it can tell stories, bridge gaps, and contribute to societal well-being. These kinds of events were my favorite part of working at Junoon.
Interviewer: How has the response from these events influenced your approach to future culinary ventures?
Chef Verma: The positive feedback has been incredibly affirming. It’s encouraged us to continue exploring innovative ways to present our cuisine, confirming that there is a keen appetite for authentic yet novel Asian dining experiences. This has already influenced my approach to building a compelling pan-Asian menu and will continue to impact my work at Black Salt, where we aim to blend tradition with innovation in exciting new ways.
Interviewer: Let’s talk about how you’ve used and developed your skills here in India. What was it like working with Chef Nuzha Ebrahim of ‘Grilled’ fame?
Chef Verma: Of course. Chef Nuzha is a visionary. Highly produced cheeses like Amul sort of dominate the discussion when it comes to Indian casual food. She put together a team that sought to offer Mumbai a new understanding of cheese itself. Fromagerie was a unique opportunity to step outside the conventional restaurant kitchen and dive into the entirely different world of food trucks and street food. Here, the focus was on creating gourmet grilled cheese sandwiches—a simple concept turned extraordinary through innovative flavor combinations and high-quality ingredients.
Interviewer: What inspired you to venture into this kind of culinary style, particularly with grilled cheese?
Chef Verma: Chef Nuzha needed a partner in the endeavor that could help to bring her dream to life and I was more than eager to help her bring this revolution to the streets. The inspiration came from a desire to explore how comfort food could be elevated to something sophisticated yet accessible. The ensuing brand launch and expansion event went brilliantly and I was overjoyed at being able to play such a large part in accomplishing that goal.
Interviewer: It sounds like you really *drove* the Fromagerie truck to success! Could you share some examples of the innovations you developed at Fromagerie?
Chef Verma: Certainly! One of my favorite standout sandwiches that I devised featured aged cheddar with a homemade fig jam and caramelized onions on sourdough bread. Another was infused with truffle oil and paired with a delicate fontina cheese, which really catered to a finer palate.
Interviewer: So there was clearly a significant creative aspect to your role. How did you approach the research and development for these new flavors and what has the experience left you with?
Chef Verma: The R&D process was incredibly dynamic and collaborative. I worked closely with my colleague Chef Nuzha, who brought a fantastic entrepreneurial spirit to the venture. We experimented with a range of ingredients, from artisan cheeses to unique condiments. It was about striking the right balance between innovation and the comfort expected from grilled cheese. Fromagerie taught me the importance of direct customer engagement. Operating a food truck puts you face-to-face with your patrons. You get immediate feedback, which is invaluable. It also honed my skills in business logistics, from managing supply chains to orchestrating event appearances. Each location and event posed different challenges and learning opportunities, particularly in how to efficiently set up, serve, and connect with the community. It really did prepare me for the undertaking of opening Black Salt.
Interviewer: How do you plan to bring these diverse experiences to Black Salt?
Chef Verma: At Black Salt, my vision is to blend the high standards and innovative spirit I’ve embraced throughout my career. We aim to set a new benchmark in pan-Asian cuisine in St. Louis, offering a unique dining experience that combines traditional Asian flavors with modern twists. All of my experiences have enriched my perspective on how food can be a catalyst for change and community building. I aim to bring this ethos to every dish and event we host. Whether it’s a quiet dinner or a grand opening, the goal is to create moments that resonate deeply with our patrons, celebrating not just the diverse flavors of the Asian continent at large but also the stories and traditions that each dish carries. Engaging with the community, supporting local causes, and promoting cultural appreciation will be at the heart of what we do at Black Salt, inspired by events like the Taste of Asia, Woodstock Santa Fe, and Fromagerie.
Interviewer: Black Salt is known for its acclaimed establishments in the region. As the new face of their latest venture, how do you feel about joining such a distinguished brand?
Chef Verma: It’s an honor to be part of a brand that values excellence and innovation. Black Salt has a fantastic reputation, and I am eager to continue driving its legacy forward by pushing culinary boundaries and setting new standards. I’m also excited to lead the opening and spearhead special events like these going forward, ensuring each guest’s experience is both memorable and unparalleled. I’m bringing everything I have and creating a space where every dish tells a story.
Interviewer: Thank you, Chef Verma, for sharing your vision and passion with us. We look forward to the grand opening of Black Salt and experiencing the magic you bring to the table.